Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

page 1 of 1 


Sub floors, timber, pineboard or cement, must be level, smooth and free of all dust and grease.

Laying on Timber

If floor is uneven, line with masonite hardboard underlay. Sheets are 1-20x-90 mts.

These must be secured firmly with hardboard nails or stapled (staple guns can be hired at most hire firms). Leave fine gap between each sheet to allow for movement due to change in weather. Sheets must be nailed every l0cm around the edge and 15cm through the center .

Once you have finished fastening the sheets, fine sand paper the surface . You will then be able to find any nails or staples that are protuding and then hammer level.

Do not sand too heavy, leave coating on surface to stop glue absorbing into hardboard . If this does happen you will not get proper adhesion and may end up with bubbles in your flooring.

Laying on Pine Board

This flooring normally only needs joins filled and sanded, then coated with a lacquer to prevent glue absorbing into surface.

Laying on Cement

You can lay over most steel trowled surfaces . If your floor is uneven or has cracks or holes, these can be repaired using a cement compound mixture (ardit z8 or mastic k10. These are also called levelfloor, available in small amounts at local hardware stores).

The easiest method to lay vinyl sheeting is to first make a template of the area by fitting large sheets of heavy paper over your floor and then using a block of timber mark around the inside edge .

Then lay the vinyl sheeting out flat on level surface placing your paper pattern on top. Mark around the outside of your line using the same block.

Take a new stanley knife and lightly cut around the line, then go around and cut through fully. Don't try to cut through the first time. This is where you can miss cut and ruin all your hard work.

Laying vinyl or cork tiles not that hard if you follow the instructions that come inside the cartons.

Remember to cut lightly the first time then cut twice or three times before you try to snap the tiles.

You should lay all your base floor first, then when you are ready to fill all the edges place a new tile on top of your last tile. Then taking another tile, place it right to the edge of the wall ,cut lightly at the back of this tile two or three times, lift and snap along cut and this piece will fit exactly.

Vinyl tiles should be pulled in tight as they will not swell like cork tiles. They can be laid slightly looser as they swell when they are coated. If cork tiles are pulled very tight they will peak at the edges. To get the best results from cork, they will need three or four coats of polyurethane with a fine sanding between each coat.

Check for squeaky floor boards before you start. Vacuum floor before you spread adhesive. Make sure floor is free of grease and anything else. Check your measurements to make sure you have everything right before you start.


Stanley knife & spare blades, straight edge or chalk line, pencil, spreader for adhesive, block of timber wrapped in old towel to rub over tiles or sheeting to remove air bubbles. Measuring tape, saw to cut masonite, hammer & nails or staple gun.

Patience... a professional makes it look easy. You can do the same job if you take your time. Double check before you start and keep your fingers out of the way.

page 1 of 1