Fixing the Boards

For best results, a combined nail and adhesive fixing technique is recommended, using fine panel pins such as Tilling 25mm x 1.4mm "deep drive", in conjunction with a construction adhesive. Suitable adhesives are readily available in cartridges (for application with a dispenser/caulking gun). The adhesive manufacturers directions should be followed at all times.

Special "deep drive" panelling pins should be used for securement of boards - these bronzed steel pins are corrosion resistant - essential for "damp area" applications (bathroom, laundries, kitchens, spa rooms etc.)

1. First, check that the wall area is, in fact, square by using a spirit level or plumb line. Youre now ready to locate the first board - for vertical installation, start in the left corner (if you use a hammer right handed) and, using a carpenters level (for vertical line), pin the first board with grooved edge into corner (tongue pointing to the right). You may have to trim the edge into the corner to fit it neat and vertical.

   For fixing boards either horizontally or diagonally, always start at floor level with tongued edge uppermost. Again, you may have to trim the bottom edge to make sure it is level.

2. Carefully apply beads of construction adhesive to framing, battens or plaster surface, sufficient for the installation of four or five boards at a time - now position the initial board and nail securely - snugly fit successive boards (tight cramping is not necessary), pinning each one as indicated above - take care to drive (or punch) the nail head below the board surface so as not to obstruct fitting of the next board - with this fixing technique, the nailing simply provides a firm clamping action, ensuring an effective adhesive bond.

3. As you proceed with installation, check after every 3 or 4 boards with a spirit level to ensure that boards remain truly vertical or horizontal - whichever is appropriate.

DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECK ALL YOUR MEASUREMENTS BEFORE CUTTING - IT TAKES A LITTLE LONGER BUT IS WORTH IT IN THE LONG RUN.

If you need to join boards lengthwise (i.e. when installing horizontally), always position the join over a batten or wall stud so that the finished join will be as smooth as possible. Pre-drill nail fixing holes at board ends.

The fixing of the final board generally necessitates pinning through the face - position this nailing so that it will be covered by installation of the finish moulding, such as external or internal corner - two sizes are available in each profile.

Secret Nailing

All profile panellings have facility for secret or concealed nail fixing where each successive board covers the head of the panel pin in the previous board.

"Vee-joint" profiles should be carefully secured at the tongue junction as shown below - here, panelling pins are ideal - having a "deep-drive" head, they are virtually concealed when counter driven with a fine nail punch.

Handy Hint

It is advisable to pre-drill nail fixing holes (to avoid splitting) in hardwoods such as Tasmanian Oak, Cypress Pine, Spotted Gum. When fixing the ends of boards, always pre-drill irrespective of the timber species.

Face Nailing

The top and bottom (or ends) of each board should be face nailed through to the batten or wall plate (pre-drilling of course). These nails will then be concealed by the finish trim mouldings.